GARAGE TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.
Page 57
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Appliances Suggested by Our Driver and Mechanic Readers.
LAPPING-IN a crankshaft -in a lathe necessitates some form of lapping device which is adjustable and can be made without undue expense. " W.A.S.W.," of Tiverton, describes a lapping tool which he has designed, for which this week' S prize of 15s, is awarded.
The first task is to cast two lead blocks of no greater width than the length of the shortest crankshaft journal to be treated; these blocks have four holes drilled in them to accommodate the clamping bolts. Next the blocks are clamped together with a piece of sheet lead between them, and a large hole is bored through the blocks of a diameter about five thousandths of an inch less than that of the crankshaft journals. The sheetlead packing is removed and each block has a recess cut at one end, into which the handles can fit, being held in position by the two clamping bolts at that end. These handles are made from flat or round iron bar.
In use, the crankshaft is mounted in a lathe and a little medium carborundtun paste is smeared over the journal, the lapping tool then being clamped round it and the bolts properly adjusted before starting the lathe. It should be noted that the Iced blocks must not be pulled too tightly round the journal, but must be sufficiently free to move.
The lathe is started at a moderate speed, and the lapping tool Is held by the operator, who lubricates it with a little thin oil and moves it frequently across the journal, from side to side, if it be wider than the blocks of the tool. Take up the slackness between the crankshaft and blocks immediately it appears by tightening the bolts equally, to ensure that the Meeks are kept true. From time to time dismantle the tool, clean it, and apply fresh carborundum, the Anal polish being given by means of the finest grade of abrasive.
STUBBORN castellated valve caps
arc by no means uncommon, and difficulty is experienced in making a spanner stay in position in the cap when farce is applied. "G.W.T.," of Llantrisant, suggests a spanner consisting of a piece of iron 3 ing. wide, 7 ins. long, and 4 in. thick. One end of this is drawn down to fit a 1f-in. diameter pipe, which is used as a handle to provide extra leverage. In the flat head of the spanner are drilled four holm A. in. diameter, at equal distances apart. Into these holes are fixed blocks which fit into the slots in the valve caps. The shanks of the blocks can be riveted over. In order to prevent the spanner jumping out of place, a hole is drilled in the centre of it to accommodate a t-in. set-bolt, which is fitted into a tapped hole specially provided in each valve cap. When the spanner is in position the set-bolt is passed through the spanner into the valve cap and tightened down, thus enabling a hammer to be used on the spanner, or a pipe, giving long leverage without fear of slipping. THE numerous small cutters belong ing to the lathe are not convenient to grip with pincers or pliers when being heated for hardening or tempering, because the tools are clumsy and absorb a lot of heat, so delaying the attainment of the proper temperature on the part of the tool. " E.H.," of Bath, uses a holder of the type illustrated, which consists of a brass tube having a slot cut at one end, thus providing a slightly elastic grip on the cutter. The opposite end can be fitted With some non-heat-conducting material, or it may have a wooden handle. Tits, device .ensures ' comfort for the operator and he is. able to turn out efficient work on this account.
MUCH loss occurs when handling 'oil
drums, due to the clumsy nature of these objects, if they have to be handled without proper appliances. " G.A.L.," of Washington, describes a drum holder which can be made in almost any wohop. Five pieces of wood are necessary, two forming the rockers or side pieces, and three the crossmembers. The drum is cradled on the cross-members between the rockers. It is important to note that the curvature of the rockers is such that their centre is approximately that of the oil drum. In this way the drum will be almost balanced when mounted, comparatively little strength will be necessary to tip it, and it can be held steady when emptying.
THE marking of small tools is often
necessary in workshops to avoid confusion and loss. " W.E ," of Holbeck, describes a method of identifying spanners and so forth. Purchase a little bluestone and mix it with salt and water, smear the part of the tool to he marked with a coating of beeswax and then scratch the name on the toot through the wax. Pour a little of the bluestone solution on to the wax and allow it to stand for a short time, after which it should be washed off and the wax removed. The name will be burnt ; it is, therefore, important to see that only the initials' or device which are wanted are cut through the wax.
PETROL priming is demanded by some engines and a syringe is not always included in the tool kit. To overcome this trouble " T.J.H.C.," of Gillingham, uses a priming tube. Be takes a piece of copper piping about a foot long and f in. in diameter, and solders up one end, thus making a closed pipe. About 2 ins. or 2,1. ins. from the closed end a hole is made and the open end is cut to form a lip.
When priming, the driver holds the lipped end of the tube and pushes the closed end into the tank so that the petrol enters through the hole and fills up the bottom 2 ins, of the pipe, which is tipped so that the petrol runs down and through the compression tap. The quantity of petrol held in the lower end of the pipe is sufficient to prime two cylinders, states " T.J.H.C."