• RUNNING, .Interesting Contributions
Page 63
If you've noticed an error in this article please click here to report it so we can fix it.
UPKEEP AND OVERHAUL.
from Maintenance Engineers, Drivers and Mechanics.
More about Stripped Rearaxle Nuts.
LIKE the big-end, the stripping of rear-axle nuts and the consequent damage to other parts, still appear to he of considerable interest to drivers, mechanics and to the owners of vehicles. It is of special interest to the last named on account of the costly renewels the fault so often entails.
A correspondent, "H.W.O.," of Newcastle-on-Tyne, tells us hew he was asked to examine a large axle, the thread of which had stripped so badly that he was afraid to cut another thread as the metal under it would have been too thin to he safe. The makers of the vehicle asked 40 for a new axle, which the owners considered to be more than they eared to spend on the machine. "II.W.0," made a satisfactory job of the axle by driving a liner in and building up metal outside so that a new thread could be cut without weakening the end of the axle. The cost of this repair was 19 10s.
We have shown from time to time in these pages many devices whereby the stripping of rear-axle nuts can be rendered practically impossible. We hope that designers have taken note of some of the suggestions, so that in the future we may hear less of this preventable trouble.
• Cylinder-head Lifting Tools.
IN a recent issue we described two
tools for lifting the heads of cylinders, which, by a curious coincidence, were sent by the same post, and both from Scotland. These tools were made from discarded sparking plugs, with improvised handles fitted to them.
We now hear from Messrs. B. Cadisch and Sons, of 5 and 0, Red Lion Square, London, W.C.1, that they make a special tool for this purpose, having three different threads, so that by its use any detachable head can be removed very easily. The threads are metric, i-in, gas and i-in. 18 per inch. A ratchet action is embodied, so that the screwed plug can be inserted without the handle corning into contact with obstructions.
Two tools of this type are required, and they are sold at 12s. per pair.
Big-ends, Shims and Discwheel Nuts.
FROM Glasgow we have received a letter from a correspondent who wishes to be known as "Shim." It reads as follows:— " I quite agree with ‘J.S.' concerning the fitting of shims to prevent the escape of oil at the ends of the bearings, but I do not agree that these shims should be of brass and have the brass surface actually bearing against the crankshaft pin. The shim should be protected at its ends with white-metal facings, such facings beingof the same length, as there remains white metal en each end of the bush beyond the mud groove. This, therefore, gives a complete oil seal and at the same time a white-metal bearing surface corresponding to the
bearing. I understand that very extensive use is made of this white-metal facing on the laminated shims, which are such common practice in America, "With regard to the naragraph 'Some Reasons Wanted' in the article on page 623 of your issue for anne 19th, I would like to remark on the third question concerning the fitting of right-hand and
left-hand-threaded nuts for affixing the disc wheels commonly used with pneumatic tyres to the hubs. I agree that it is a little difficult to explain, but I am assured that one eminent person tried out nuts of similar thread on both sides of the vehicle and found from definite experience that those on one side tended to slacken, so that 'A.R.P.' is quite incorrect when he says that there seems to be no reason for the practice,' when there is the beat reason of nil. A possible explanation may be the question of the air resistance on the inner and outer corners of the nuts tending in due time to cause rotation. However, as is usual, it comes back to the actual test as being the best proof of the necessity for doing this."
The Easy Starting of Large Engines.
ALTHOUGH' this subject appears to be exhausted so far as suggested means for easing the driver's task are concerned, we cannot help noticing the interest the correspondence has aroused among those who have the task to perform. A. postcript to a letter on another subject is significant. It reads, "Rub the easy-starting tips into the maker's drawing-office staff."
Assembling a Morris Clutch.
THAT the assembly of the clutch on
the 11.9 h.p. Morris may prove a tricky job to anyone not familiar with it is pointed out by " R.F.W.," of Burton-on-Trent, who says the first and most essential point is that the clutch housing should be absolutely oil-tight, as the clutch runs in oil. It is a metalto-metal joint, with no interposing washer.
To make a good joint he suggests that one should obtain some shellac and mix into a paste with a little methylated spirit. After coating the two surfaces with this, joint-up while tacky, tightening uniformly on the pins. "
states that no more trouble need be feared at this point.
The next procedure is to assemble the clutch springs. Before attempting to replace the springs, one should thread a loop of string through the spring and washer, coiling the string around some convenient part, such as the hand brake. Should a slip be made while compressing the spring, it can easily be drawn out by the loop, instead of falling into the housing; the string can be easily pulled out after getting the cotter in position.
Should one have the misfortune to drop a cotter, Ole can be extracted in the following manner :—Drop a small inspection light into the clutch housing; a side lamp bulb is admirable for this purpose. The cotter will then be seen, as it will usually fall straight to the base. A piece of thin stick with a dab of grease at the end will do the trick, as the cotter will stick to the grease and can be drawn up through the hole with no trouble. On no account should one be left in through being inaccessible, or the result will, most probably, be disastrous.