If you wanna buy the best
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If you are looking to buy second-hand trucks, follow these tips to avoid getting a bad deal.
Words / Images: Kevin Swallow
Buying a used truck is, in theory, a cheaper option than buying new. However. if you don't make all the checks you need to, it could wind up costing far more than first imagined. CM, with help from Ken Grindrod, sales director of Wakefield-based Pelican Engineering, offers an essential guide to buying second-hand trucks • Paperwork Cast your eye over the VS registration document and make sure everything tallies up. Check the MoT dates and any Vehicle Excise Duty left on the truck.
• Service history:it will list completed work and the replaced components, more importantly it'll tell you what hasn't been replaced.
• Vehicle history :Try to find out who ran the truck previously— don't be embarassed to call the previous owner to try and find out what it did.
• Finance check Dealers do it as a matter of self preservation to check for outstanding debts— you should do the same.
• Cosmetics Give the truck's exterior a good once over, concerns over removed livery and subsequent scarring should be voiced.
• Windscieen and mirrors: Chipped or cracked windscreens need replacing before the next MoT, cracked or broken mirrors will need replacing too.
• Tyres and wheel rims Make sure the tyres are clean and not odd specifications. Check the tyre walls for damage and the tread depth. A new set of tyres is not cheap. Assess the wheel rims for cracks, dents and impact damage.
• Water: Lift the front panel and check the level in the header tank. As a coolant, it needs to be. leak free.
• Engine: Lift the cab and check the engine. See if components or injectors look too clean (an effort to remove oil residue) or brand new and match the service history description. If the engine is warm already, the vendor might be disguising some cold start-up problems.
• Oil leaks: Look underneath for any fresh oil drips. Check the sump; if it's dry, chances are there are no serious leaks, plus check around the injector heads. Remove the filler cap and check condition and colour; creamy texture suggests water ingress, dark colour means it might need replacing.
• Seals: Check the seals between the rear of the gearbox, the prop shaft and the axle for oil residue.
• 1Fuel tanks: Look for patches, check the straps around the tanks to see if the tank has moved and created worn points. Deep recesses could lead to leaks and pressure problems. Also check the locking cap works.
• Catwalk and connectors: Catwalk should be secure, and there should a full complement of air and electrical lines.
• Ignition :Turn the key to starting point and make sure all the lights that should go out, do. Once the engine is started. all lights save for the handbrake light should go out. If any remain or flash, ask. It might be a faulty fuse, but it could be costly and require a diagnostics check. If it's the ECU, definitely check. Note that an ABS warning light might stay on until the truck reaches a certain speed.
• Cab interior: It might not be to your taste, but check the curtains are all there, the condition of the mattress, and that the driver's seat isn't damaged. check the dash and wall for redundant holes, which might have housed hands-free phone kits and in-cab entertainment systems • Run the engine: Get out the cab and listen for untoward noises from the drivefine and transmission. Rattles and knocks need to be investigated.
• Battery: A flat battery is not neccesarily beyond redemption: often the tachograph will run it down if it's been stood. Once fully charged it should work fine.
• Oil quality: With the engine running, remove the oil cap and see if it's smoking. It could be a blocked breather, or it could be piston liners or rings. •