WAYS AND MEANS.
Page 69
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Useful Contributions from Our Driver and Mechanic Readers.
A Chucking Device for Connecting Rods.
ACORRESPONDENT, of St. Mary Cray, sends us the following :—Most modern engines have their connecting rods made of steel stampings, which have no machining upon them except for the actual working bores and faces. After these have been remetalled the problem of setting up in the lathe for boring is often a difficult one, as not only is the rod difficult to hold on the faceplate or in the chuck, but having done this there is nothing to set up by go ensure the bore being true.
The device about to be described was made in order to abolish any doubt about the correct location of the bore. Whilst it was only designed for one particular make of engine, it could easily be made adaptable to more than one type by the provision of suitable blocks and pins.
As will be seen from the accompanying sketches, a flat steel plate has upon one end of it a steel block (a); the top of. which is drilled with two half-holes, the distance between the centres of which is equal to that between the connecting-rod bolt holes. These half-holes can easily be drilled by clamping another piece of steel down to the block and drilling into the pair. The size of the drill is equal to that of the big-end buns.
At the other end of the plate a hole (or slot, if adjustment for two or more sizes be wanted) is made, and a pin (P) bolted or riveted in. This pin should fit the small-end bush, and its height of shoulder should be such that the rod lies square. All that is now required is a pair of extra-long big-end bolts, which will project beyond the rod and lie in the halfholes. The rod is thus supported at each end, and a simple clamping device completes the job.
If it he desired to hold the jig in a. three or four-jaw chuck, a round boss (C) can be riveted or screwed in, taking care to see that it is central on the axis of the big-end bore.
If made with reasonable care, this jig will greatly facilitate the boring of conneeling rods, and the operator will have the satisfaction of knowing that they ire all correct and alike.
Fixing Brake and Clutch Linings.
THE following is sent by " F.S.," of Orpington :—Apart from its braking qualities, the modern fabric-lined brake is a great convenience, as the driver or owner can keep it in good order with the most simple set of tools. A few hints on this subject may be interesting. Brake drums, if scored, should be bored out true and smooth in the lathe, if bored out in. larger the fabric will have to be -A, in. thicker when relining. Aluminium rivets should be used if possible. In a few cases, however, where only a small number of rivets is used, copper is needed to maintain strength, but it is a better plan to drill more holes and use aluminium. It is better to countersink the holes in the shoes than countersink the lining (where this can be done). The material will then be drawn down into the countersink and this makes a very sound job. Warm the lining in a gas burner and curve it to the shape of the shoes, rub
chalk on the lining and it can then be marked for drilling through the holes in the shoes. After riveting up in the usual manner from the back, a final hammer up should be given on the fabric side. Care should be 'taken that shoes do not rub on the sides of the drums, and whatever causes this should be cured when refitting.
It is not usually known to drivers that a cone clutch lining can easily be made from a straight piece of fabric, and, unlike leather, it will not require
timing after it is fitted. Take the old lining and pencil its shape on a piece of board, fasten one end of the new lining to the board with a wire nail, then drive in another nail about 6 ins, away, warm the fabric well and curve it to the pencil marks on the board, driving in nails about every 2 ins, to keep it there. When finished, go back to the starting end, take out the two nails, and warm and .curve it, fastening with nails as above. When cold it can be removed fom the board and fitted in a similar manner to the
brake lining as explained above.
End Play on Pump Spindles. LIKE some other drivers of Thorny
croft lorries, " J.L.P.," of Edinburgh, has at times had •trouble owing to the ball bearing at the front end of his pump spindle working loose in its housing, and allowing the spindle to tome forward, with the result that the blades of his fan come too near to the tubes of his radiator. In some cases we have even known the tubes to be damaged. To remedy this he adopted a very simple method, which consists of drilling a hole in the housing, tapping it in. B.S.F., and fitting a setscrew which bears at its point in a groove which he has ground with an emery wheel in the ball bearing.
Some Uses for an Old Inner Tube.
MANY uses have been suggested for an old inner tube, such as hot-water bottles for warming beds, etc., but "H.M.," of West Bromwich, seems to have found a tube of the kind so useful that he suggests that all drivers should carry one with them.
He tells us how a 6-ton lorry was climbing to Hill Top, near West Bromwich, when the upper rubber hose to the radiator suddenly burst, and the driver did not care to risk stopping until he reached' the top of the hill, so he struggled on with the water boiling until the summit was reached. Being in the small hours of the morning when everyone was asleep he had to do the best be could, so he took the old inner tube he carried with him, cut two lengths off to suit the length of the burst hose, and slit these so that they would close round the hose, taking care that the slits came on opposite sides of the hose. He then bound them well with cord, and was able to continue his journey with a delay of only 20 mins.
" H.M." also tells us tint he has found such a tube very useful as a bucket with which to fill his radiator.