MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.
Page 13
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Valuable Advice on Every Phase of Ford Transport, Which will Appeal to the Owner, Driver and Repairer.
IN THIS series of hints concern_Ling the Ford light chassis and ton truck, we endeavour to deal with the subject from every viewpoint, so that the advice will appeal to the owner, driver, maintenance engineer or mechanic.
We shall welcome for inclusion among the hints those which have proved of value to individual users, and will make suitable remuneration for any which are published.
331.—Another Cradle for the Crankcase.
A short time ago we published details of a reinforcing band or cradle to prevent the breaking of crankcase bearer arms. At the same time we received details of a device somewhat resembling this, but even more simple in construction, except that it is lined with a strip of leather to prevent rubbing. The ends of the strap are also turned to a different angle from those on the previous one which we described.
332.—Fitting Crankshaft Bearings.
When adjusting the bearings on the crankshaft, it should be noticed whether the white-metal shoulder or radius on
the rear cap is thin. If so, the cap should be replaced by a new one, as this Is the only way in which end-play in the crankshaft can be taken up and, if excessive play be allowed, the gap between the magnets and the coil assembly will be excessive, resulting in hard starting.
333.—Some Points Regarding the Transmission.
Faults occurring in the transmission usually form the greatest difficulty of the owner-driver or driver-mechanic.
The largest amount of wear usually takes place in the bushes, and is a job that can only be properly handled by a well-equipped Ford depot. All the bushes have to be reamered out, and this can only be done effectively, so far as truth is concerned, by the use of suitably designed equipment, which in itself is an expensive item and will be out of the question in the case of the average small owner. Wear on the triple-gear bushes and the three thrust washers will' allow the drums to become sloppy in the endwise direction, this being accentuated by wear on the drum bushes.
334.—Removing Axle-pin Bushes.
A difficulty is often experienced in removing the first of the two bushes in each stub axle, and we have on several occasions drawn attention to devices which will assist in this matter.
One. of our readers, however, points out a method which he states never fails. This is to tap out the bush which is to be removed with an old I-in. Whitworth tap, this being screwed into the bush for about half its length and left in posi tion, and then with a suitable drift the bush and tap can be driven out from the opposite end.
335.—Holding the Engine While Under Repair.
When removing the sump, etc., of the power unit for replacing, say, a broken bearer arm, considerable time is saved by lifting the complete unit with transmission cover, exhaust manifold and carburetter 'n widen, draining out the oil and turning the whele unit upside down.
To keep the unit level and firm on the floor while in this position, an iron plate, approximately 2 ins, wide, in. thick and about 1 ft. long, can be secured to the unit by means of the two studs in the top water connection
on the cylinder head, the plate being suitably drilled for the purpose. A piece of wood peeking under the transmission cover completes the fixing.
The crankcase bolts can now be loosened quite easily, and after the sump has been lifted the open part of the unit should be covered with brown paper to keep out dirt.
336.—Removing and Replacing the Cylinder Head.
After removing a cylinder head for decarbonizing or valve grinding, it is advisable to replace all the cylinderhead bats before removing any carbon, otherwise some of the carbon may lodge in the tapped holes—a frequent cause of bolt breakage—as, when replacing the head, the bolt or setscrew jams on the deposit at the base of the hole, and so cannot pull down the head without excessive power hens applied to the spanner.
The safest way is, before reassembling, to insert a twist-drill about 5-16 in. diameter, and with its nose dipped in a little grease, into each hole in turn. After giving a few twists any deposit in the hole will stick on the grease and be withdrawn with it, Laving the hole quite clear.
Should a bolt be broken, the remaining portion can easily be tapped out by means of a centre-punch ground to a sharp point. On replacing a head it is advisable to fit a new gasket, and, when tightening up the bolts, draw these down quickly in turn, starting at the centre bolt and working round. Before finally tightening the bolts it is advisable to start up the engine, and after the cylinders have become warm to give a final test with the spanner.
337.—Holding the Cylinder Block on the Bench.
It sometimes proves a great convenience to hold the cylinders on a low bench while bedding in the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, etc.
A simple way of doing this is to secure, by means of four of the cylinderhead bolts. two suitable lengths of 2-in. by i-in, flat iron, drilled at their outer ends so that they can be bolted down to the bench, thus making the whole job quite solid and allowing ample clearance for the pistons and valves where these protrude through the cylinders.