FORD VAN POINTERS..
Page 25
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By R. T. Nicholson (Author of "The Book of the Ford ").
HEN you put on a new leather fan-belt, do r1
you ever give a thought as to the way it goes on the pulleys? "No ?" Then you Id ; for it makes all the difference to the life of belt which way it goes on.
385.—That Fan Belt.
you look at a leather fan-belt, you will see, of se, that it has an overlap-at the jein. One end ie belt is outside, the other is inside. The belt Id. be put into working position 'in such a way the outside end of the belt runs over the pulleys the engine turns—before the inside end.
Lat's not too clear' I'm afraid, I mean this : As mgine turns, the belt will, of course, run over the 3ys. It should be so placed that when the overcomes to either pulley, the outside end of the ier will get there before the inside end. Rightly nd; it can do so; wrongly placed, the inside end le leather will get there first. It is only a queswhich way round you place the, belt. I do not n that it's a question of turning the belt inside -I mean—Oh! look here : the sketches show the b and wrong ways. Pictures tell more than Is—sometimes.
L the left hand sketch, the overlap of the belt is so ed that the outside end of the leather runs over pulleys-before the inside end—right ! In the right
LI sketch, the inside end gets to them first—wrong! the belt runs as in theright hand sketch, there is rong tendency for the inner end of the leather to ripped away from its stitching as it meefe the eys; and if separation begins, the ripping effect clearly be very rapid. On the other hand, if the runs as in the first sketch, the tendency is for pulley to press the inner end of the belt against part to which it is sewn, and so prevent any pull he stitething. iis tip, by the way, applies not only to Ford fan3, but to all fan-belts whatsoever. And it stands mse, doesn't it?
386.—Ammeter Behaviour.
a you know exactly how your ammeter ought to we in different circumstances'? I am going to tell exactly what it should do—though perhaps rather your interest than for the sake of any practical you may get from the knowledge ; because the
I ammeter, though just as good as most other 'eters in this respect, is not very finely graduated, and does not enable you to be sure of its readings "to the dot." You can, however, be sure of them within limits narrow enough for practical purposes. (a) With the engine at rest, and all switches off, your ammeter ought to indicate 0.
(b) With your engine at rest, and your " Bright " headlights burning (together with the tail light), your ammeter ought to show 5,4 (just under 5) "Discharge.'
(c) With your engine at rest, and your " Dim " headlights burning (together with the tail light), your ammeter ought to show 1.25 (14) "Discharge."
(d) With your lights off, and your engine just turning over (at a speed representing less than 10 miles an how) your ammeter should show 0. (e) With your lights off, and your engine speeded up so as to represent 10 miles an hour, the ammeter pointer should jump to 2-3 "Charge."
(f) Under the same conditions' but with engine speed increased up to 20 miles an hour, the ammeter should show a gradually higher reading up to 10-12 "Charge." At 20 miles an hour, its maxirauni reading should be shown : after thatat any higher speed —the reading should decline.
(g) If you turn on the " Bright " or " Dim " headlights when the van is running (or the engine) at over 20 miles an hour, the ammeter should still show 10-12 " Charge."
(h) As the engine slows down towards stopping, with no light burning, the ammeter pointer should slowly go back to 0, and eventually (though only for a "tick ") to 2-3 " Discharge, ' jumping back immediately to 0.
(i) The ammeter will hardly register the small amount of current taken by the ignition when the switch is set to " Bat." position. It gives the merest flicker each time contact at the timer is made or broken.
(j) Use of the starter upsets all the above ammeter readings for the moment—till the foot-switch is lifted. This is because the use of the current for starting cuts down the supply in any other direction.
• 387.—For Grimy Hands.
Are you proud of your bands? Do you like them to be ladylike? Then try my prescription : Take a cake. of Brooke's soap (simply won't wash clothes!).
Of course, you know all about it now; you have often tried the stuff, and found that it would not wash hands either—that you could not get any soapy bite with it, and that if you rubbed hard enough with it it crumbled up and got away from you. That is what I found: so I tried a new plan with Mr. B. I took a cake of him and put him into a small tin, that would not much more than hold him. Then I poured in enough water to make the cake into a paste ; it does not take much to• do that. Then I put a daub of paste on to my hands, rubbed in with water, and was dean in no time.
This paste does not score or roughen the hands; it does not eat into them chemically ; it does the work required of it ; it is cheap ; it is always to be had.
388.—The Ford Parts List.
Have you seen the latest Ford Parts List? It is one of the best things of the kind I have ever known. Everything is ISO well arranged, the illustrations are so clear, and the particulars given are SG full, that there is "no possible doubt whatever," as to the parts referred to.
In fact, the book might well serve as a model for the imitation of manufacturers of far more "swanky " cars, vans, and lorries. The price list of parts, by the way, is published separately for the present.