MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.
Page 47
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Valuable Advice on Every Phase of Ford Operation which will Appeal to the Owner, Driver and Repairer.
528.—Improving the Lubrication of Spindle-body Bushes.
From time to time various methods of improving the standard way of lubricating the front-wheel spindle bolts and bushes have appeared amongst these notes. The difficulty seems to be in adequately lubricating the lower bush, as the top one is already suitably provided for. One of our contributors has already suggested drilling a small hole in the spindle body just above the lower bush and plugging this with a piece of wood. This method has merits, but in the event of the ping dropping out, the hole will readily admit particles of road grit—especially-in wet weather—which will speedily nullify the good effect of the previous lubrication. Another method which has proved more efficacious, and can also be carried out easily, is the following :—When rehashing the spindle body thoroughly clean out the aperture after removing the bushes, and when the new bushes have been pressed home cut a shallow groove longitudinally in the upper bush by means of a hacksaw blade. The groove should only be deep enough to act as an oilway, and should be cut before reamering the bushes.
When refitting the spindle body to the axle press it into position, holding a finger under the hale in the lower tork of the axle, and pour about half a teacupful of warmed gear oil through the hole in the top of the axle fork, slip the spindle bolt into position and screw it home. By this method the lower bush commences well lubricated, there is an adequate reservoir of thick oil immediately above it, and the introduction of further supplies is made certain by the oilway cut in the upper bush.
529.—The Removal and Replace, ment of Exhaust Manifolds.
In paragraph No. 434 we published a hint dealing with an idea for facilitating the removal and replacement of exhaust manifolds and induction pipes without necessitating the breaking of all the joints. The means employed to secure the part which it is unnecessary to remove is two standard manifold clamps, each with one leg sawn off. These are made from old-type clanips, and were used on the old-type engine. In the 1926-7 engine there is, however, a redesigned clamp and a shorter stud, but by filing a piece off each clamp at the point indicated, and reversing it, this new clamp can be made to function equally well on either type of engine.
530.—Locating Ignition Trouble.
For rapidly and accurately tracing trouble in the ignition system of a Ford a plug-tester is invaluable. As the cost to-day is negligible—it can be obtained for as low as 1s. 6d..—one Acacia be in the possession of every repair man and driver. The condition of the plug Is ascertained by touching the plug terminal with the metal cap at the end of the tester and watching the orangecoloured flashes in a tube filled with neon gas and contained in the tester. The brilliancy and frequency of the flashes indicate the state of affairs at the plug points. No flash occurs when the points are bridged or the circuit interrupted in any way.
Where such testers prove absolutely invaluable on a Ford is in locating a grounded commutator wire or grounded commutator segment, when the vehicle is not equipped with a battery. Of course on vehicles that are equipped with a battery the continual buzz of the coil the circuit of which is completed will speedily give the repair man the clue to the, trouble, one coil Continually buzzing by itself or with each of the other three in turn. With the non-battery vehicle no tell-tale buzz
takes place when the engine is not running, and the location of the trouble is often difficult.
With a plug-tester all that is necessary is to start up the engine and check each plug in turn. A plug showing a continuous stream of flashes at low engine' speeds indicates that either the loom wire is shorting or the commutator segment is grounded. This particular trouble must not be confused with a bare place being rubbed on one of the wires at the commutator, which is brought into contact with the motor at certain positions of advance or retard. The starting handle in this case will often give a violent kick, in some cases spraining or even breaking the driver's wrist This is due to the spark taking place too early.
It would prove a wise investment for those in charge of repair shops to invest in one or more of these testers.
531.—Fitting Domed Front Wings on the Ford.
This job can be an awkward and exasperating one. But if the following hints are followed it will be found fairly easy without removing the radiator.
First, take off the nut from the radiator stud on the side where it is required to change the mudguard. Take off the headlamps. Remove the two coach-type bolts which secure the mudguard tie rod to the mudguard. Run out all bolts securing the mudguard to the footboard valance and frame, also the drip-pan bolts. Ease up the rod lug and bonnet board with a screwdriver. The mudguard can then be easily withdrawn.
To fit the rep'neement is not quite so ens:. When received from the store it will be found that the mudguard stay, which is integral with this type of mudguard, is sprung away about 21 ins, from the apron at the bottom. The real difficulty lies in overcomine this spring and persuading the I-in. bolt which is in the side of the frame to enter its corresponding hole in the wing stay.
Now, get someone to ease up the radiator again from the front with a screwdriver. Lead in the foremost corner of the mudguard apron between the bonnet board and frame (under tke radiator lug) ; slide in the remainder of the apron edge. Insert first the two mudguard-to-footboard bolts, leaving them loose. Next insert the coach-type bolt through the mudguard near to the radiator lug. Prise up the stay over the bolt and put On the nut, tighten up, at the same time watching the fin, bolt which is in the side of the frame. Ask someone to put a finger 0111 this bolt inside the frame. (It will be found just possible to do this.) As the stay and bolt come together nobble the bolt if necessary with a thin screwdriver or hacksaw blade. As soon as sufficiently through put on the nut and tighten it up. It is the fitting of this one I-in, bolt which presents the greatest difficulty.