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MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.
Page 104
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Valuable Advice on Every Appeal to the Phase or Ford Van Owner, Driver and Operation which will Repairer.
519.—Holding Coach Bolts in • the Vice.
During an overhaul it is often found that the dash is loose, owing to the various bolts .securing same working slack or one of the two dash-support bratkets breaking. On the later models having the steel dash, two short ,56-111. coach bolts sand nuts secure the dash to the dash bracket, which in turn is bolted to the chassis. Should either of these bolts work loose and the nuts drop off; the vibration quickly plays havoc with the threads, necessitating rethreading or renewing the bolts.
_Az the bolts are very short, being only a little over an inch in length, they are rather awkward to hold in the 'dee. An ideal method for holding them is to utilize an. old broken dash bracket. There fire two holes the exact site all ready for use, and, being of right-angle section, the other side can be held in the vice. As there is nearly 4 ins. between the holes, it is a good plan to
drill-Prim, i-in. and holes' between the to and file them out square to accommodate coach bolts of these diameters as well. This will come in useful for various similar jobs.
520.—Take Care of the Valves.
Decarbonizing and grinding-in the valves is a job that is not calculated to give the mechanic any great anxiety. On the contrary, it is often regarded as a monotonous servicing Operation, calling for little or no special attention. Admittedly there is nothing extra lelicafe about the job, yet with this, as with other jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way.
Raving removed carbon from the cylinder head, Valves and ports, examine the valves. Look for pitting on the exhaust-valve faces—sometimes the whole face will be covered with a hard scale, indicating a warped valve, concavity on the inlet-valve faces, wear on the stems and distortion. A valve the face of which is worn concave will usually show wear on the stem as well. Bearing in mind the cost-7d. retail— it is cheaper and better to renew than to attempt to put the old valve in order. The same applies to warped and pitted valves.
Now examine the valve seats in the. cylinders. These may be found to be more or less pitted, especially those for the exhaust. The only satisfactory
method of removing these pits is by using a valve reseater. For this job the best tool is the Ford valve-reseating tool. Unlike other reseaters the Ford tool eats a radial seat, which; in conjunction with the flat face of the valve, gives the nearest approach to a hair-line seating. As the valve wears it tends to bed itself down.
Next examine springs, seats and pins. The valve spring, when in situ, and with the valve at rest, should exert a presSure of from 24 lb. to 28 lb. Every garage has not the requisite means of checking this, but a fairly safe method is to measure the length of the spring. Discard all under 3 ins. long, fitting new springs to exhausts, reserving the others for inlets.
All spring seats that show any signs of indentation where the pin seats should be discarded, as should any pins that are not perfectly straight and of full section throughout.. The retention of worn springs, seats and pins is certain to affect the running of the
motor, and is sure to give subsequent trouble. Considering the cheapness of these parts (springs 3d., pins 14., seats 10.), it is economy to renew so soon as they show signs of wear.
Before replacing valves thd should be tried for tappet clearance. Opinions vary as to the best clearance. The standard clearance for both inlet and exhaust valves lies between the limits of 1-64 in. and 1-32 in. A point that should not be lost sight of here is the opening •and closing of the valves in relation to-the tappet clearance. The exhaust closes at top dead centre, and the inlet opens *,in. over top dead centre. Clearances should be made to ensure that each-pair of valves conforms to this setting. New valves will usually require shortening, as they will be found to open early. Should a valve open late it should. •be .replac*d with a new one having, a tong stem, irrespective of its general condition.
Oil the stems before refitting to guides, and before refitting the Cylinder head bring pistons Nos 1 and 4 'to the top of thestroke, which will .steady the gasket and prevent it slipping out of place.
521.—A Quick Repair to the Reverse Control.
The pin which holds the reverse catch on to the pedal shaft broke, -putting the. reverse out of action. As the vehicle was wanted in ' a hurry something had to be done quickly. BY taking.. the exhaust pipe off it was found possible to remove the pedal and shaft, and then lift out the catch through the transmission-cover door.
After the broken pin had been removed the pedal shaft and catch were reamered out to take a taper pin, the parts were then reassembled, in the same way as they had been removed, and the taper pin driven in through the door. The whole job was done he just over an hour. '
If the standard straight pin had been used it would have been necessary to remove the transmission cover to rivet the pin over.
522.—Blowing Exhaust Gaskets.
A great deal of discomfort through noise and escaping fumes can be occasioned by gas leakage past an exhaust gasket. It sometimes happens that a manifold warps, and, in' this case, a new set of copper-asbestos gaskets and sleeves effect no remedy. A giant* at the casting will reveal the fact that the material Of which' it is composed is not uniform in thickness, that at the rear end being much more bulky and substantial than at the frent. If for any reason the manifold be removed while very hot, once the restraining influent* of the clamps is removed, distortion will be set' up through the much more rapid cooling of the forward end, and in the event of damage arising through this cause it will be advisable to obtain another c-,sting and to heal' in mind our advice to leave the manifold to cool off het et* remoilitg.it..