MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.
Page 55
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Valuable Advice on Every Phase of Ford Transport which will Appeal to the Owner, Driver and Repairer.
445.—Removing Seized-up Spindle Bolts.
When overhauling the front axle to take up slack in the steering, it is sometimes found that one or both of the stub axle spindle bolts have seized in the axle and although the nuts generaBy run off fairly freely, paraffin, heating, etc., does not always enable the bolts to be removed. If much force be applied, the head of the bolt usually snaps through in the neighbourhood of the oil hole, with the result that only the threaded end is available to be gripped.
In such a case, employ a hacksaw between the bottom end of the stub-axle body and the lower fork of the axle. This enables the stub axle to be removed. Then obtain a large die holder containing a pair of split isin. "Whitworth dies, preferably old ones. Clamp these dies as tightly as .possible on to the threaded portion of the spindle bolt and turn the die holder, at the same time pressing downwards; this will almost certainly free the broken end.
In using the hacksaw, it will generally be found that there is sufficient play between the lower spindle-arm bushing and the axle fork to insert the blade ; if not, the bush itself can be sawn through fairly easily.
446.—Avoiding a Fan-belt • Trouble.
Other drivers may have had the same trouble as one of our contributors who drives a Ford ton truck and may be glad to hear how a remedy was found for an annoying occurrence.
He says that owing to oil which leaks from the front bearing of his engine getting on to the fan belt the belt constantly came off the pulley and slipped down behind it when starting up.
His remedy for this trouble is a simple one, but it may be interesting to know exactly what he did. He tells us that be made a "ring, presumably of metal turned in a lathe, which was a driving fit in the fan pulley, and left a
flange extending in. beyond the face of the pulley and 1-16 in, thick. This he riveted to the pulley, and he assures us that he has not had his belt come off since the flange was fitted.
It is not very clear why the belt should have preferred to come off at one side only of the pulley ; and as only one flange was fitted, why it did not come off at the side where there was no flange. We know, however, that belts often have unaccountable likings for one side of the pulleys on which they run.
447.—Mixed Headlights.
The following scheme, which has been in use for some two years on a Ford driven by one of our contributors, may be of interest. It applies only, however, to pre-battery machines. It is, of Course, well known that when the current for the headlamps is supplied by the low-tension magneto, the light varies with the speed of the engine, and the wiring being on the series system, both lights fail if the filament of one lamp only be burnt out.
It was proved by experience that one 12-14-Tolt lamp would produce a brighter and steadier-light than two 6-7-volt or 8-9-volt lamps.
The other headlamp was then converted to burn acetylene and fed from a small generator secured in a convenient position. It was not found necessary to put this gas lamp into commission except for long runs in the country, but it practically ensured the car never being without a headlight.
It was found better to retain the nearside lamp as the electric one.
448.—Tracing Some Magneto Troubles.
Perhaps the worst trouble that can assail the Ford engine is that of a weak magneto, which is indicated by. difficulty in starting and failure of the engine to run slowly. There are of course, degrees of weakness. The magnets may have deteriorated only slightly and yet the engine will be difficult to start. As they become worse, starting becomes more difficult until, finally, it will not budge at all, or, it may appear to run fairly freely, but will stop directly the gear is engaged. It is possible that the magnets may be as strong as ever, but that wear in the bearings may have caused the distance between the rotor and the stator to become more than normal so that the coils are partially removed from the magnetic field and, consequently, sufficient current cannot be induced in them. Therefore, a search for the trouble should include testing for excessive end play.
This can be done by inserting a screwdriver between the front cover and the fan pulley and endeavouring to lever the pulley forward. If there be excessive play it will at once become apparent.
End play may also be tested for in
another. manner: Jack up the rear wheels and let another person engage and disengage the clutch. If the engine be difficult to start with the clutch out and easy to start with the gear engaged, there must be excessive end play.
Many drivers start up stiff engines in this way without knowing why it is easier to do so. The reason is that the pressure of the clutch spring forces the magnets nearer to the stator coils. On the other hand, the pressure of the spring being released when the clutch la in neutral, the magnets are kept away from the coils.
Defective magnets, stator coils or spark coils and bad insulation may all cause'trouble, and these should be tested before other sources are sought The Ford magneto should give 15 volts at 1,200 r.p.ra., and if it does not do so it is in need of attention.
At this point it should be mentioned that the correct play of the crankshaft should he 1-32 in., certainly not -more, and to achieve this it may be necessary to remetal and readjust the crankshaft bearings. As a temporary measure, a washer may be fitted between the timing pinion on the crankshaft and the front main hearing, but it should be inspected frequently for wear, and renewed when necessary.
The stator coils may conveniently be tested by removing the earth connection from the 'casing and connecting a galvanometer and battery, as shown in our diagram. Any defect in insulation then be apparent and must be rectified.
When the stator assembly has been put together again, the earth wire should be carefully soldered to the casting. A varnish made of shellac dissolved in methylated spirits (i.e., ordinary shellac varnish) should be applied to the whole assembly and allowed to dry.