MAKING BEST USE OF THE• FORD.
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Valuable Advice on Every Phase of Ford Transport which will Appeal to the Owner, Driver and Repairer.
• 483.—A Useful Miscellany.
When relining bands, a useful way is to make use of a hardwood pulley the same size as the drums. Place the lining inside the steel band and tighten the band on to the pulley by using a
bolt across the ears. When properly in position, punch holes in the lining, using a sharp punch. RetrCove the lining, place on a bench and then countersink the holes, using a larger centre punch. Insert the rivets, replace the lining on the pulley and then
burr the ends over. This makes a much better job than doing the riveting in a vice.
To prevent the lead from the main plug on the transmission cover becoming soaked with oil and touching the cover, drill a hole in the dash and replace the ordinary lead by a heavy piece of cable with Chater-Lea terminals at each end.
The first time that the pawl of the hand-brake lever requires replacing, drill Out the hole in the brake lever to take a tight-fitting clevis pin secured
by a splitpin. Then, when at any future time it is required to replace the pawl, it is only necessary to remove the spaniel and clevis pin, the whole operation taking about five minutes.
The control arm on the brake shaft of the ton chassis sometimes folds up. To prevent this, secure a piece of fibre, cut this to the correct shape and insert in the arm, drilling through the fibre and arm and fitting rivets. When filling up the back axle with oil or a mixture of oil and grease, use an old kettle by which the mixture can be warmed. The lubricant will then flow much more readily and reach every part of the axle.
484.—A Useful Engine Stand.
When overhauling the Ford engine difficulty is sometimes experienced in holding the unit during dismantling and
re-erection. In such a ease a useful stand, which will greatly facilitate the work of overhauling, can easily be made from oddments taken from the scrap-heap. The top rails Can be made from the side members and front crossmember of an old Ford frame cut off at a point about 3 ins, behind the uni versal joint. The four legs can be made from pieces of angle steel, and the ties between them of 11 in. by I in. iron.
• The construction of this stand can easily be seen from the illustration.
485.—Preventing the Hand Brake from Jumping.
One small trouble to which the hand brake is prone after a certain amount of wear is that of the lever pawl refusing to bite in a satisfactory manner. with the result that the brake sometimes jumps off.
Drivers have used various expedients to overcome the trouble, such as fastening the lever with string or putting a
piece of -wood in front of it. Both practices, however, are unsafe and untidy.
A cure can easily be effected when replacing the quadrant and pawl. The old quadrant should have its ends cut off and be riveted to the new one in such \ a manner that its teeth can be recut to correspond with those in good condition. This makes a quadrant double the width of the original and allows the pawl to catch more securely.
486.—Repairing the Horn.
Of all the Ford accessories, the one perhaps most free from trouble is the warning horn, and only on very rare occasions, when its note becomes feeble or hoarse or its mreration irregular, does it require attention.
Such faults are generally due to dirty_ or loose connections, or to worn and Pitted contacts. The remedy for the first condition is obvious, whilst, in the second, new contacts should be fitted if the pitting be excessive, but, if not too far gone, the old contacts can be trimmed tip with
fine file. The correct distance between them is about the thickness of the cover of this journal. If the gap be too large, undue sparking will occur, and excessive burning will then take place. A method of overcoming the burning is to utilize a Ford coil condenser, which, of course, must be sound, and connect this in parallel with the gap. This will absorb the current, causing excessive sparking, and lengthen the life of the contacts.
Sometimes a cessation of the signals may be due to a broken blade; in other cases, a bad connection or a breken wire may be responsible.
487.—Starting-up in Cold Weather.
In cold, frosty weather the morning start-up is liable to try both temper and strength, particularly as it is not wise to employ the electric starter, if one be fitted, when the engine is stiff.
Unless an anti-freezing solution be employed, it is always advisable to empty oat the water at night and then, in the morning, the radiator can be filled with fairly hot water, not too hot, 'or the sudden expansion of very cold Ingtal in the cylinder may cause trouble, but very hot water can be used for saturating some pieces of flannel, which should be wrapped around the carburetter and inlet pipe. The controls should then be set properly, the rear wheels jacked up, the cylinder primed with a small amount of petrol and the starting handle turned as quickly as possible. If a start be not made after half a dozen turns, prime again, using the hot flannel.
In very cold weather it is sometimes necessary to clean the commutator, adjust the coils and carburetter and clean the plugs before the engine will commence running. A little ether will sometimes help considerably for priming in place of the petrol and often a cloth soaked in petrol and held close to the air inlet will greatly facilitate matters, • In some instances, starting by turning one of the rear wheels while the other is on the ground facilitates matters, but this is only when there is end play on the crankshaft, which, when the clutch is withdrawn, increases thn distance between the magnets and the stator coils.
• 488.—Adjusting Ball Connections.
Before aQusting the ball connections on the drop arm and steering connecting rod when it is necessary to take up play, it is advisable carefully to examine them, as the balls tend to wear oval, the greater wear taking place on those surfaces which are presented to the caps while the steering lock is in about the midway position.
'When adjustment has been made in such circumstances, the steering may be quite free for small locks but be very stiff on full lock, in fact, cases have been known where the wheels once locked over have been gripped in that position. A new drop arm will effect a Cure.