AT THE HEART OF THE ROAD TRANSPORT INDUSTRY.

Call our Sales Team on 0208 912 2120

• MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.

9th November 1926
Page 79
Page 79, 9th November 1926 — • MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.
Close
Noticed an error?
If you've noticed an error in this article please click here to report it so we can fix it.

Which of the following most accurately describes the problem?

Valuable Advice on Every Phase of Ford Transport which will Appeal to the Owner, Driver and Repairer.

456.—Working the Horn from the Battery.

We recently published a hint on working the horn from the battery. One of our readers has written to say that he has tried this method according to the circuit given, but that it does not prove satisfactory, as the horn is made to work on an alternating current as supplied by the flywheel magneto, and not on the direct current which is supplied by the battery.

Perhaps others of our readers may have tried working tho horn in this manner with more success.

457.—Replacing Valve Springs and Cotters.

A. special tool with a forked end is necessary for grinding in a set of four valves, and this tool may be used in a simple manner for compressing valve springs when reassembling. To do this, a strong belt lace or loop of wire can be put round one of the exhaust clamp studs. If made of suitable length the lower end of this loop will form a handy fulcrum for the grinding tools, the forked end of which fits nicely under the springs.

458.—Facilitating Tap Control.

In the case of the van, access to the oil-level cocks is rather awkward on account of the valance, which does not exist on the truck. However, a useful device for operating the tap can easily be made out of an old pull-rod from a side brake. All that is necessary to convert this for the work is slightly to close the clevis, saw off and bend the rod -to the dimensions given in the diagram,

459.—The Care of the Silencer.

The Ford silencer assembly consists of three tubes of different sizes which fit into each other and are bolted on to the exhaust pipe. It is quite effective and resembles the air silencer used on the inlet pipes of gas engines. If well eared for it will last for a long period, and even if it develops holes these can be patched.

After being in use for some time the pipes and the outlets clog up with carbon deposit and the efficiency is much reduced. This will cause overheating on hills and a curious thump or knock owing to back pressure may be set up.

Consequently, the silencer should be cleaned at least every 5,000 miles.

To do this, tap it all round with a fairly heavy piece of hard wood. This loosens the deposit, and it will then be blown out by the gases from the engine. It is as well, after tapping, to push a piece of rag tied at the end of a stout wire into the tubes, probing and turning the wire while doing so.

If it be necessary to dismantle the assembly, loosen the big bolt at the end, and, having done so, scrape the end of the exhaust pipe with the wire and rag already mentioned. When the assembly has been replaced it will probably be found that the power of the motor is greatly improved.

To prevent rusting, the exterior of the silencer should be covered with fireproof paint, such as is used for stoves or the funnels of steam wagons. This will also improve its appearance. This paint can be made as follows: a. lb. of boiled linseed oil, a lb. of Japan var nish, lb. of spirits of turpentine, ozs, each of lamp black and powdered graphite, oz. of powdered manganese dioxide. Mix the oil and Japan varnish together, add the lamp black and graphite and then the manganese. The mass should be briskly stirred while the solids are being added. Thin down with the turpentine. This paint dries quickly and should be applied rapidly after the silencer has been thoroughly cleaned and warmed. A similar coat should be applied every three months or so.

460.—Some Good Anti-freezing Mixtures.

Now that winter is approaching it is important to consider how dangers from frost can be obviated. The safest method of preventing cylinder damage through freezing is, of course, entirely to empty the radiator, and although this does not take very long to fill, if it has to be replenished every morning the procedure becomes a nuisance.

Some drivers complain that they find anti-freezing preparations more 'bother than they are worth, but the majority speak in their favour. A general cause of failure with these mixtures, when they ate made up by the drivers themselves, is carelessness in mixing the ingredients.

The Ford Manual advocates the use of a solution composed of alcohol and water of various strengths, but, in the opinion of one of our contributors, two, gallons of water to half a gallon of alcohol or wood spirit gives the best results.

A very good mixture is 2i lb. of calcium chloride and three gallons of water.

Another good formula is 15 per cent glycerine, 25 per cent. alcohol and 60 per cent. water. These should be well mixed before putting into the radiator, and alcohol should occasionally be added to replace that evaporated.

. One objection to solutions is that they usually attack the rubber hose connections, and these will probably have to be renewed after a few months or, say, at the close of the winter season.

461.—Removing the Steering Wheel..

Considerable difficulty is sometimes experienced in removing the steering wheel when the steering gearbox has to he greased. However, an efficient puller for this wheel can easily be made from a piece of hexagon bar with both ends bent down at right angles, these ends being drilled and tapped fin. Whitworth, whilst the centre part should be drilled and tapped fin. Whitworth for a square-headed setscrew. Threeeighth-in, setscrews of the same type should be fitted into the holes in the legs.

After removing the nut of the steering wheel, place the drawer over the wheel and screw in the two I-in, pins until they come below the spokes. Then

tighten up the centre setscrew, and the wheel will be pulled off quite easily.

The width between the legs should be 2ains., the length of the smaller setscrew should be n in. and of the larger setscrew 1i in. v, • • 462.—Employing the Battery for Ignition.

• Last November we published a short article on employing the battery for ignition in the case of magneto failure. One of our readers writes to tell us that he ran his Ford for over a fortnight on the battery alone, owing to the magneto becoming demagnetized, and that this proved quite successful. It lasted until an opportunity could be taken for attending to the magneto.

The battery must not be expected to last for long if much use is made of the lamps, but it can be recharged.

Tags


comments powered by Disqus