MORE STEAM WAGON TIPS.
Page 27
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Useful Ideas Contributed by Our Driver and Mechanic Readers.
AGOOD word is said by " W.H.C., of Diglis, for the friction drive for the water pump, which is a familiar feature on the later types of a wellknown make of steam wagon. It is very useful, he remarks, to be able to throw the pump out of action from time to time, using it only when it is actually required, and thus saving the wear and tear of pump and fittings which would otherwise occur. It is, however, a fact, he continues, that these friction discs wear more quickly than cut gears. They can, however, be trimmed up and adjusted quite easily, and. their life eon • siderably extended, as is explained below.
Apparently the discs on the wagon driven by " W.H.C." failed to transmit the drive while he was on the road, and an emergency repair had to be effected. He made use of a good file, and, after turning the water off at the tap at. the bottom of the tank, reversed the engine and ran it gently while he held a.file in the position shown in one of the accumpanying sketches, truing both wheels up until a nice driving contact was obtained. Ten minutes sufficed to put the wheels into such trim that the engine continued to be used for several weeks until an opportunity occurred to put the wheels in the lathe, where they could be trued up properly.
On replacing these wheels after the latter operation further difficulties were
encountered. It was found that the operating lever fouled the fulcrum pin of the reversing lever before the wheels, now somewhat reduced in diameter, made proper driving frictional contact. There are two ways of getting over this difficulty, and as their effects are cumulative, it may sometimes be found advisable to employ both so that, in the end,
the maximum of use may be made of the friction wheels..
One way, the simplest and most, obvious, is to bend the -operating. lever ppwards so that itdears the reversing lever fulcrum. The Iever should be bent as near the boss as possible, to obtain the full movement. The i'other method is to file the holes in the bracket which carries the friction wheel, so that it may be lifted up. In this case a setscrew tapped into the top flange of the bracket acts as a satisfactory positii'e support, and prevents the bracket pin slipping back again in the event of the bolts shaking loose. This setscrew is also useful for adjusting purposes, both in the first case, and again from time to time.
The sender of the above letter has been awarded the 15s. prize this week.
" H.A.B.," of Rotherham, remarks on tlie difficulties which frequently arise whenever, in re-erecting a steam-wagon engine after an overhaul, it becomes necessary to replace the flywheel on the end of the crankshaft. Not only is the wheel itself, of necessity, a tight fit on its shaft, but the operator is debarred from using great force, owing to the risk of springing the shaft itself
The best way, according to the sender of this letter, is to lay the flywheel flat on the floor, and drive the shaft into it. Put some good and well-fitting wooden blodks 'between each pair '-of crank webs, to prevent springing ; fit a dummy key into the keyway in the shafts one which is a nice sliding fit, and then hammer against the top end of the shaft, using.a packing of hard wood to relieve the end of the shaft of the direct hammer blows.
The shaft is in the wheel to the reqiiisite depth when the distance between the eccentric sheave and the small friction wheel for the feed-pump drive is the same as that over the flaugee ei tne crankshaft brasses. It is advisable to keep a half brass handy and to try it occasionally as the shaft enters, so as to be sure that the wheel is not driven in too far.
The final operation is. of course, the replacement of the key, which should be a good tight fit, and ho secured with a Peg Another steam wagon driver who has a word to say aboutkeys is " J.H.C., of Twickenham. These very useful articles, he points out, should certainly be well driven on in the first place, and if they are, and if a considerable time elapses between the date of fitting and the time for their removal, then getting them out again is no joke. All sorts of expedients are adopted, such as wedging the key off with a flat chisel driven between the boss and the key head, and ib is no infrequent occurrence for the head of the key to be broken off altogether. Even if that does not happen, both key and wheel, even sometimes the shaft, are burred and damaged, owing to the force . which has to he used A' simple but,,-Teffective method, one which largely eliminates the risk of damage, and which, with this correspondent, has never failed, is to Make a neat wedge from an old flat file, which should be softened by being heated to red heat and allowed to cool. Make a. piece of this:file into a cotter, as shown in the sketch. File one edge flat, and halfround the other, petting a taper in the width of about in. to the foot in length.
Now cut a shallow half-round groove in the root of the key head, as shown, to aecornrnodate the half-round edge of the cotter. Place a suitable'paelting, if required, between the boss of the wheel and the key head, and drive in the cotter. A few hard blows on the end of tho latter will usually be enough to start the key, especially if they be supplemented by one or two applied to the wheel boss while the cotter is strained.
The same correspondent sends a good tip in connection with the replacement of piston rings' which, as-is rat-her toe well known, are inclined to snap as they are sprung over thet head of the piston. He says thateif the rings are warmed up over a fire or Bunsen flame, until they can only just be held in the hand, and if they are put on while, so hot, the risk of breakage is considerably eliminated.
" F.F.," 'of Harrow,"rnakes a very useful suggestion to drivers ef' steam tractors and others who find some difficulty in reading vertical water gauges at night. Turn one glass round, until it /aces the boilerfront. 'It will then be found possible, eo ,read the .level quite easily if the fire-door be flicked open about an inch.