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5th June 1913, Page 25
5th June 1913
Page 25
Page 25, 5th June 1913 — kom Drivers &Mechanics
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TEN SHILLINGS WEEKLY is paid for the best communication received, and one peony a line of ten words for anything else published, with an allowance for photographs.

Send us an account of any speeial incident of your work or experience. If suitable, 2ve will edit your notes, supply a sketch when required, and pay you for everything published. Mention your employer's name, in confidence, as evidence of good faith. A ddress to The Editor, THE COMMERCIAL MOTOR, Rosebery Avenue, London, E.G.

When Bending Pipes.

The sender of the following communication has been awarded the 108. prize this week.

[1276]" R.T." (Bedford Hill) writes :—" Copper and steel pipes when being bent in the repair shop are sometimes kinked in the process. Apart from their appearance kinks and sharp bends are undesirable in exhaust and inlet pipes on account of the resistance which they offer to. the free passage of the gases within the pipes. Copper pipes up to il in. in diameter may be bent cold if suitable blocks and levers are used. Steel pipes, however, require heating when being bent, and they are generally more difficult to manipulate than are those made of copper. Many drivers do not make the slightest attempt to do jobs of this nature for themselves. but prefer to run up a stiff bill of costs at some works or garage.

"Before commencing to bend the pipe, a wire templet of the shape required should be made. If the pipe be of copper, it should be loaded with resin run in while hot and allowed to cool. To bend the pipe three things are required. First, a hard wood block with a hole in it slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. Secondly, a, loop made from an old piece of copper pipe, and thirdly, a stout pinch bar of convenient length. "The method of bending is shown in the sketch [We have had this redrawn.—En], from which it will be seen that the pipe is passed through the hole in the block, while the copper loop forms a fulcrum for the lever. The power exerted enables short bends to be made without kinks. This is done by gradually moving the pipe through the block, so that the pres sure is not exerted continually at any one particular point during the operation.

"To bend steel pipes the same process may be used, but sand is used for loading, and the block or its equivalent should be of metal. The pipe is heated at the point where the bend is required, and is cooled off slightly on the side of the pipe which will form the inner radius of the curve, to prevent kinking. A small hole ehould be drilled in the pipe in any convenient position in order to allow for expansion of the sand when heated. Otherwise the contents may be blown out during the bending process. After being bent, and before being put into service' all pipes should be carefully tested and inspected for flaws."

To Stop Brake-hangers Swaying.

[1277] "J.E.J." (Huddersfield) writes :—" As I am a regular reader of your valuable paper, and have obtamed several very good repair hints from it, I am sending you a little suggestion and a sketch which will, I hope, prove of service to some of my fellowdrivers, particularly of Mann's steam wagons. The brake on this wagon is quite a good one, but, owing to the machine dropping into holes and running over rough ground, the brake has at times broken. This has been due to the side swinging of the hanger and the wearing of the long rod-ends almost to breaking point by catching in the rims of the wheels. The little fitting, of which I send you a sketch—[We have had this redrawn.—ED.I—prevents the swaying of the hangers. The wood block should be held by straps or bolts to rest against the tank.

"This dodge will, I have found by experience, prevent the trouble of the rod-ends' breaking. I dare say that wagons of other makes fitted with brakes of this tyne could also be materially improved by some little fitting such as the one described here."

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