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HINTS ON MAINTENANCE.

3rd May 1921, Page 30
3rd May 1921
Page 30
Page 31
Page 30, 3rd May 1921 — HINTS ON MAINTENANCE.
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How to Get the Best Out of a Vehicle, to Secure Reliability and to Avoid Troubles.

CONTRIBUTIONS are invited for this page from fleet managers, drivers, garage foremen and mechanics, works staff and draughtsmen, and will be paid for on a generous scale. Every system, make, and type of commercial motor vehicle will be dealt with, and the matter should be written with a view to the disclosure of workshop and garage practice in the maintenance of a vehicle—practices which, whilst they may be quite normal, are peculiar to the particular vehicle and may not be generally known to those responsible for its running. Expedients and suggestions for overcoming roadside and other troubles are covered in the following page, headed "Roadside and Garage." Communications should be addressed to "The Editor, The Commercial Motor, 7-15, Rosebery Avenue, London, RC. 1."

10.—Improving Compression.

. If the engine of a motor vehicle is to run efficiently, it is essential that the compression sheuld be good, and that any leakage past the rings or between the valves and their seats should be prevented. Leakage past the rings depends greatly upon the condition of the cylinders. If these are worn leadly or scored, it will be necessary to?grind them out and to fit larger pistons and rings, but if it is only the rings that are worn, these should be renewedz and a good fit can be ensured if they are lapped into the cylinder with a veryosmall amount of the finest carborundum or eniery and oil, care being taken theroughly to wash away with paraffin any traces of the abrasive powder. If the faces of the valves are pitted, they can be re-turned in a lathe, but the seatingsesometimes present a difficulty, and may require the use of a special cutter, an example of which is illustrated.

11.—Relining Napier Brake Shpes. The method of attaching the friction material to the rear brake shoe on the two ton Napier commer cial chassis renders the replacement of this material a particularly easy job. The lining is held in position by three T-bolts, and can be removed by taking these out. The new material is then laid on the brake shoes and holes drilled opposite the T-bolt holes. The T-bolts should then be inserted and the nuts screwed up slightly. If the material is then warmed by a blow-lamp or by some other means just where the T-bolts fit, it will be found an easy matter to draw the material tnto position by tightly screwing up the mite. If the friction material is obtained from the manufacturers, it will be found that it is already die-pressed :o the exact shape of the shoe, and this drawing down nethod is not then necessary.

12.—Removing and Replacing Driving Chains. The fitting or removing of driving chains, particularly when they are new, is sometimes a matter of considerable difficulty, even when the radius rods are slackened back to their fullest extent. Several special instruments have been placed on the market for drawing the ends together so that the jointing pin can be inserted or removed, as the case may be, but these are somewhat expensive, and do not always fit chains of different sizes. When removing a chain, if an attempt is made to disconnect it by pulling or forcing the pin out, the threads, when the pin is held in by a lock nut, are very apt to become burred over, and even a plain pin sometimes jams, whilst, when replacing a chain or fitting a new one, it is almost impossible to bring the two ends together without some kind of tensioning devioe. The simplest of these, and one of the most 'effective, is a. length of thin but strong tarred rope.. When removing the chain, one end of this rope should be fastened round the second roller from the pin. Its end should then be turned round the second roller on the other side of the pin, hack again round the third roller from the pin, and finally round the third roller at the other side. This forms a very effective blocks and tackle rig, and by pulling on the free end of the rope the chain can be so tensioned as to release the pull on the pin, which can be removed quite easily. When refitting a chain, the latter is laid out at full

length along the floor in a straight line with the driving sprocket and chain wheel. As before, the end of the tarred rope is fastened round the second link at the,driving sprocket end and pulled over the sprocket until the teeth engage with the chainlinka. The rope should then be fastened to any convenient point, so that this end of the chain wheel remains in position. The same procedure can be followed with the other end, and when both ends are brought close to each other the rope can be united and arranged to make a set of blocks and tackle, as was done previously when the chain was being removed; finally, the pin can be inserted. The fitter should not, on any account, forget to slacken the radius rods before removing or replacing

chainz and when the chain'isi once more,in position the radius rods should be adjusted to give the correct tension, care being taken to see that each is made exactly the same in length, so that the sprockets and chain wheels will all be correctly aligned.

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