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0 From Drivers and Mechanics.

25th July 1912, Page 21
25th July 1912
Page 21
Page 21, 25th July 1912 — 0 From Drivers and Mechanics.
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TEN SHILLINGS WEEKLY is paid for the best communication received, and one penny a line of ten words for anything else published, with an allowance for photographs.

We publish particulars of an interesting new competition for drivers and others, with regard to watering places, on page 470.

Renewing Front Springs, [10821 " H.B." (Sandbach) writes :—" I beg to offer the following little suggestion, which will, I trust, prove suitable for use on the 'D. and M.' page. It deals with a simple method of removing and replacing the front springs of a steam wagon or tractor. I think that the fore-carriages of the leading makes are practically of the same design, and therefore the method that I describe will apply to most of them. Most makes have a laminated spring (S), which is held in a swivelling centre-bracket (C). It is a very awkward job to fix a new spring unless the work is undertaken in a most systematic manner. The sketch shows the spring as it should be placed in the slippers on the axle (A). It also shows the spring wedged in position by suitable wood blocks (B.B.B.). This wood locks the spring at one end, and at the same time allows the other to move freely. When the blocks are fitted in place, the bolt and clamps (ChM should be procured and fitted as shown. The spring can then be deflected by screwing down the nut on the bolt until it is low enough to allow the swivelling casting (C) to be pushed over into position. The centre pin should then be inserted through the bracket and the bore in the centre of the axle. This done, the packing blocks should be knocked out of position, and the tension taken off the spring by removing the bolt and the clamps. The spring will then assume its normal working position. I have heard of drivers trying to thump the swivel casting into position without previously packing or deflecting the spring, and I think you will agree with me that this is, at the very best, a very foolish attempt to remove or to replace a spring." Repairing a Cylinder Crack.

The sender of the following communication has been awarded the Ws. prize this week.

{1083] " H.B." (Cheshire) writes :—" I recently saw a motor lorry with a cracked cylinder, the crack being about 2i in. in length. This had been repaired in a most ingenious manner, and I send you particulars, trusting that they will be of interest to you. Twa holes were drilled, about 4 in. apart, having the crack between them, and these were tapped to receive two special set screws, which each had an eccentric collar. A suitable cover-place was prepared, in which two slots were cut to accommodate the set-screws. The slots were a, special shape, as shown in the drawing, the outer edges being filed out to a slight radius, which is well shown in the sketch. The set-screws were first inserted, and screwed almost home until the eccentric collars were parallel with the crack in the cylinder. The cover plate was then slipped into position. The set screws were screwed down until they were turned through an angle of about 90 degrees. This, of course, brought the eccentric collars at right angles with the fracture. It will be seen that the eccentrics come in contact with the outside edges of the slots, and exert a leverage which brings the fracture closely together and makes a good tight joint. The fracture was treated with a solution of sal ammoniac before the pressure was exerted. Two nuts were finally placed over the bolts to hold everything securely in position, as shown in the sketch. I should like your readers to note the importance of the slots being correctly cut so as to give the required tension in bringing the fracture together. This method of repairing can, I think, be applied to many other cases. Perhaps some fellow driver can suggest a novel application of it."

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