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COMMERCIAL MOTOR BODYWORK.

22nd December 1925
Page 29
Page 29, 22nd December 1925 — COMMERCIAL MOTOR BODYWORK.
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Items Concerning Alteration and Upkeep Suggested by Our Driver and Mechanic Readers.

HOWEVER simple may be the method of fixing tailboards or body sides by means of pins dropped into slots in projecting bars, there are many disadvantages in the system. "D.M.," of "Weston-super-Mare, to whom this week's prize of 15s. is awarded, gives details of a simple design which he uses in preference to the conventional

One.

Security is claimed for this type, and the final strain of pulling in the tailboard or the side of the vehicle is eased by means of the cam-shaped face of the moving arm. Two parts constitute each fastening, one being a hook and the other an arm. The former consists of a stout plate drilled for bolting either to the tailboard or body side and having a double right-angled end piece, over which fits the swinging arm.

Mounted on one portion of the body by means of . a pivot bolt is the arm, which has a hail die for its easier operation, at right angles to which is a projection with a cam-shaped face, by means of which the hook is drawn inwards and thus exerts a pull on the tailboard or body side. A slight undercut on the last inch or so of the arm ensures that the catch will not jump out of engagement [Will "11.11." please let us have his full name?—Ena COMMERCIAL VEHICLE garages

often house two-seater cars used by business representatives. Sometimes it may be found useful to increase temporarily the load-carrying capacity of these vehicles. For this purpose " G.A.L.," of Washington, D.C., suggests a sliding extension platform in the rear section of the body. This extension is simply a shelf movable in a slot in the rear of the ear body and en closed when not in use. The amount of extension depends upon the depth of the boot. Bolts and wing nuts inside the rear compartment are the fixing media for the extension.

Another suggestion of " G.A.L." deals with the removal of tar and dirt from the inside of wings, from the chassis and other parts where mud collects. The best tool for this purpose is a flat bristle brush, similar to a scrubbing brush. With the aid of a little petrol or one of the various proprietary cleaning preparations it is possible to remove tar and oil deposits by use of the brush. A Common trouble, however, is catching the hands on bolts, pins and cotters ; to avoid this a • canvas guard can easily be made, nailed along the sides and one end of the brush, to form a glove or pocket.

ACID solutions are a great help in cleaning brass work on motor vehicles, but a little care is necessary in their use. " W.J.H.," of London,

E.C.1, favours sulphuric acid, which can be bought quite cheaply, but nothing stronger than a 50 per cent. solution should be used.

To use a brush for this purpose is extravagant, as it rapidly deteriorates ; in its place may be used a split stick wrapped round with a piece of cloth which can be destroyed and replaced without expense, The acid should be stored in stone or glas:i jars, and the required solution made by adding acid to the water a little at a time.

HIGHLY finished surfaces are common nowadays on all types of commercial vehicle, and the remarks of " F.G.B.," of Beckenham, may be help ful to those who have the washing and care of such machines.

instead of squirtinga stream of water from the hose nozzle directly against the varnished surface of the car it is much better to hold a sponge against the nozzle • and allow the water to run through it on to the varnished surface, provided, of course, that the sponge is not moved roughly so as to scratch the varnish.

"When drying the vehicle and polishing with a chamois loather be sure to move it along the surface in parallel straight lines.

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