• EXPEDITING RADIATOR REPAIRS.
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Our Driver and Mechanic Readers Contribute Some Useful Hints on Upkeep.
THE THREE letters with which we deal this week form together a miniature.guide to the upkeep and repair of radiators.
Most of the trouble in connection with the tracing and repair of a leak in a radiator is involved in the building-up of the component itself. For example, in case of a leak, the source of which cannot be determined with the radiator in situ, it is customary to take it off the ohassis, block up all openings into the radiator but one, fill the radiator with water at this point, applying a
slight pressure, when the water will leak,: and, owing to the convenience of being able to turn the radiator about, the source of the trouble can be discovered end a repair effected. Very often, however, and almost invariably where there is more than one leakage occurring, the process of repair necessitates the removal and replacement of the tanks of the radiator more than once, an operation which involves considerable labour and takes up a great, deal of time. Now " H.A.L.,'• of Raynes Park, suggests that special tanks be made which can quickly be applied to the tube block of any radiator, and can be as quickly removed.
Reference to the sketchwill disclose the fact that the temporary tanks are rectangular in shape and that they are held in place by half a dozen long bolts, so that Only these bolts have to be freed or fastened in order to remove or replace the tanks. In the sketch, and according to "H.A.L.," the bolts engage holes in cross-bars which are sechred to the tanks and which project beyond the tanks sufficiently to enable the bolts to clear the tube plates of the radiator. We would suggest that the convenience afforded by the use of this equipment would be considerably increased if the bolt-holes were slotted out to the edge of the 'plate, so that the bolts could be put in sideways and secured or released by a half-turn of each nut.
The body of each tank is made from 2-in. by Pein. Steel plate bent to the shape shown, and joined by a butt joint, with a supplementary plete.inside. The size of the tank is such that itsenvelops the whole of the projecting tubes, but comes inside the bolts by which the customary radiator tanks are secured in place. The joint betweea these tanks and the tube plates is made-by substantial robber washers. The shape of these washers is maintained by cross strips, as shown, and it is important to note that the strips on one washer must be arranged in a manner which differs from those on the other,sso as to be sure that every tube in the radiator is open at one ead, if not at both.
The cover plate of the tank is of sheet brass, secured by el-in. round-headed screws spaced 2 ins. apart. The sheet itself extends 4 in. in all directions beyond the edge of the tank, so that it may be hammereddown. Si e of the Tlein. screws Are leftlonger than the others, and they are used to secure the crosspieces in place.
USEFUL hints concerning the repair of radiators are included in a letter from " A.E.," of Manchester. Split tubes, he says, should be repaired by being patched with thin sheet copper; the edges of the gap should be brought as closely together as possible, and the patch, which must, of course, be soldered in place, should be so wide that its vertical edges almost meet at the back of the tube.
In the ease of it being necessary, in the course of repairing a gilled-tube radiator, to remove some of the gills, they may be
replaced by others of horseshoe shape, soldered to the tubes, as ordinary gills are slipped over the tube ends in the course of manufacture.
In the case of the split extending nearly the full length of the tube, it is advisable to remove its and -replace it by another. When about to fit new tubes, commence by tinning the ends of the tube and the plate into which it is to fit. When the tubes have been soldered into position, well wash with plenty of clean, warm water to remove all traces of flux.
In the case of radiators of the honeycomb type, a small tool to clean the interior, of the cells is very useful. It may be made from a piece of stout-steel wire, sharpened at the end and bent over at right angles. After scraping away any deposit, clean the cells by means of diluted hydrochloric acid, applied either by means of a piece of cloth attached to a wire, or by the use of a small brush. Remove all traces of acid before commencing the soldering operations. When thoroughly clean apply a pointed blowpipe flame to the cell. -.When the temperature has almost reached the meltingpoint of solder, squirt, soldering flux over the surface of the cell, using a spring-bottomed oil-can of copper for the purpose. This will cool the place to he soldered, and it must again be reheated and wire solder applied.
The two tools of which sketches appear en this page have reached us from the same source. The one with the turned. over end is a soldering-iron which is very
• useful for reaching inaccessible places ; the other has a hole bored in its end, slightly larger in diameter than the exterior of the tubes of a tubular-type radiator. The metal at the end of the bit round the hole is isin, thick; the method of its use will be apparent.
OUR third correspondent, " H.p.s.," of Holloway, after remarking that many radiater troubles are due to cracking of the solder round the tubes, recommends that all solder be removed entirely. Two false tube plates should then be made, differing from the others in that the tube holes are not countersunk. Rubber rings, fitted into the countersunk holes :of the main plates, as shown in the sketch, are compressed into position when the supplementary plates are fitted. They not only stop leakage, but are useful as absorbers of shock, due to vibration, and also facilitate the replacement of defective tubes.