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Drivers and Mechanics.

15th August 1912, Page 20
15th August 1912
Page 20
Page 21
Page 20, 15th August 1912 — Drivers and Mechanics.
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TEN SHILLINGS WEEKLY is paid for the best communication received, and one penny a line of ten words for anything else published, with an allowance for photographs.

Workshop lips ad smart. re/wars ; long and successful runs; interesting photographs ; all are suitabic subjects. IVe will knack your letters into shape and Will prePare sketches, where necessary, before Publication. The absence ofer sketch does not disquali,ly for a prize. When foiling, use one side of the paper only and 71Ienti411 your employer's name as a ruarantte of bona fides. Neither your Qum tzor your enrpoyer's name will be disclosed. Payment will be made immediately after Publication. Address your IMO'S to The Editor. THE COMMERCIAL MOTOR, 7-15, Rosebcry

Avenue, London, E.C.

Annual Bonuses are given to the most successful contributors.

Smokebox Improvement Criticism.

[1001] " H.R." (West Bromwich) writes :—" Some little time ago a correspondent of yours described a method of keeping the srnokebox clear from ashes, cinders, etc. [Our correspondent refers to letter No. 1079 " Keeping the Smoke-box clear," in our issue of the 11th July last.— ED.]. This idea is a good one, but in my opinion it can be improved by coupling the two pipes—that is, the exhaust and the auxiliary pipe—together by a breeches pipe. This would considerably increase the suction, and keep the smokebox cleaner. The breeches pipe could best be made by using a piece of sheet steel, say * in. thick, and cutting it out to a suitable shape and size, so that it is slightly taper when made up and bent round the two tubes. The area of the top end should be a little less than the combined area of the two pipes, say about three-quarters. The pipe ends should be riveted together, and sccured to the exhaust and suction pipes with set-screws."

Improving the Brak.e Roth.

[1002J " R.W.C." (Bristol) writes :—" I send you an account of a simple method for stopping the breaking or fracturing of tie rods or brake rods under the differential case. I have not the slightest doubt that many of your driver readers have experienced, at some time or another, quite a lot of trouble through these rods breaking and fracturing, especially when solid tires are used on the chassis. I have, before now, had to mend these parts on my own wagon four or five times a week, but since I adopted the following improvement I have not experienced any breakage for over 12 months. The idea is to make a hook on each end of the rods, then to place the hooks into position and to close LID the ends. For a differential-case tiered four loops must be made, two on each side of the case. I think that readers who try this dodge will not be sorry that they went to the little trouble which the work involves."

H.P. Steam in the L.P. Cylinder, [1093] " J. S. " (Castlef ord) writes : ' I was running home without load the other evening when I got quite a shock by the engine jibbing and setting up squeal. I quickly hopped down and investigated, and found out that the connecting rod was broken, This was a pretty state of things, and the only thing was to take off my coat and wade into a repair job. I took off the broken rod, and also the piston and piston rod, and then I obtained a piece of hoop iron 4 in. long and 11 in wide. I marked out on this iron two holes, using the piston rod gland holes as a guide. I then got a piece of sheet asbestos and covered up the stuffing box. It was the H.P. rod that had gone wrong, and when the stuffing box had been covered up with what you might call a blank flange the steam went through the H.P. into the L.P., thus running the L.P. with EP. steam. After opening the cylinder drain cocks, which let out some of the exhaust, we managed to get home without any further trouble by running on the one engine."

Injector Tips.

[1094] " S.W." (Keighley) writes :—" I am sending on a few tips with regard to injectors, which I hope will be of use. Leaky suction joints are the cause of many injector failures. The water-pipe should be tightly screwed up and the spindle of the regulating valve carefully packed. When it is desired to test these points the driver should block up the end of the suction and overflow pipes and turn steam through. Leakage will then be easily detected by the escape of steam. " Should the injector lift the water and yet fail to force it into the boiler, but instead squirt water and steam through the joints, it shows that there is a. leak in the suction pipe, or that the steam is damp owing to the boiler foaming. If the feed-water be too hot the injector will overflow ; cooling the feedwater a little will show if this is the cause of the overflow.

"When an injector commences to overflow after working satisfactorily for some time it will generally be found that the cones of the delivery pipe have been partially or completely filled up with sediment. This can easily be remedied by soaking the injector overnight in a solution composed of one part of muriatic acid and ten parts of water. This softens the scale, and makes it easy to wipe off with a cloth. Drivers who are at all anxious to prevent injector troubles will periodically overhaul this appliance and see that the cones and valves are clean and wellseated." Rubber Balls for Motor Tires, [1095] " E.W. (Leeds) writes :—" I am employed in a steam-wagon works, and we have, during the last lb months or so, been fitting our wagons with solid rubber tires, instead of steel, on all possible

occasions. This is a result—from conversations I have overheard from time to time between the heads of the firm—of the opinions held by the Editor of TEE CO3.1.1kIERCIAL MOTOR OR this subject.

" I have often thought that pneumatic tires could be bettered by the substitution of substantially-made rubber balls in place of inner tubes. They could then be fitted on heavy wagons in place of solids. I have not, so far, been in a position to experiment with this idea, but I think that the obvious advantages will be apparent to every driver. The puncture fiend would be banished, and in case of an accident it would only be necessary to replace one or two of the balls. It would not be necessary to pump or fill up the tire with solution, and I think that manufacturers could supply the balls in quantities

without great trouble. Of course, a special rim would have to be designed which would allow the balls to be placed in position. There may be one or two other points that I have overlooked in connection with this plea, hut the only weak point I can see at present would be that the strength between the balls would possibly not be sufficient to support the weight of the vehicle until the tire had rolled round a little and the weight was being taken by two of the balls. This could be overcome, possibly, by wedging as many balls as possible in the outer cover."

[u may interest our correspondent to know that nuruherless inventions have been Sled which claim to be improvements on the ordinary solid or pneumatic tire ; many of these are based on this idea of hollow robber halls. We cannot call to mind, however, that any of these devices have proved successful in practice. Rim design, loss of resiliency, internal heatin: and structural weaknesses are the stumbling blocks which this rubberhall idea cannot surmount. —En.]

Joining a Chain.

[10961 " A.E." (Norwich) writes :—" I send you particulars of a simple method of taking out and replacing the chain bolt of a steam or petrol wagon. The radius rods should first be slackened off, and then a piece of small-diameter but tough rope, about 20 ft. or 30 ft. long, should be obtained, and one end of this rope should be tied to a bolt or a plate to prevent it pulling through the chain links. The rope should then be threaded, as shown in the sketch [We have had this re drawn.—En.]. Your readers will at once see that it acts in the same way as a pulley block. The rope. should be tightened up, and the top slackness should, be taken out of the chain by turning the engine. Therope keeps the chain quite straight, and enables the bolt to be fixed in position easily."

A Scratch Worm-wheel Repair.

The sender of the following communication has been awarded the 10s. prize this week.

[1097] " H.M." (West Bromwich) writes :—" Owing• to the teeth of a worm-wheel—the steering worm to be exact—on my steam wagon having worn very thin, and two of the teeth having actually broken off, I decided to work over the Sunday in the shop to see if

could not make up a new wheel in order that the wagon should resume work on the Monday morning without delay. 1 managed to do the job with the aid of a lathe, and I think that the sketch enclosed will make clear to your readers how the work was performed [We have had this sketch redrawn.—.ED.].

"First of all a blank wheel was procured and turned to the right diameter and radius. This was then bolted to a lathe saddle, as shown in the sketch. A spring, having a pin at the end was then fitted to the cross-slide, and an ordinary change wheel having 15. teeth was bolted above the blank wheel. As I wanted to cut nine teeth in the worm wheel, the pin when dropped into every fifth tooth on the change wheel,. :leted as a stop, and ensured accurate spacing for the gear-cutting hub, which was run on a mandril between the. lathe centres. The cut was put on by the cross-slide screw, which was marked off after experiment in order to ensure the teeth being cut to the right depth. When the appliance was once rigged up the work of cutting each tooth occupied about twenty minutes. In practice. the resultant worm wheel was extremely satisfactory, and it is still running and is in excellent condition after a considerable amount of service on the road."


Locations: Bristol, Norwich, Leeds, London

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