Nom Drivers &Mechanics
Page 17
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Repairs to a Steamer.
[15711 " (Nantwich) writes :—" A few days ago I was called out to an engine with a bent eccentric rod, the Strap having run hot and so caused the trouble. On arrival I found that the valve-spindle
A link-block substitute.
plunger was also badly bent, and the link die block broken in two.
"At first sight it seemed as though the engine would have to be towed home, but 1 succeeded in finding a way out of the difficulty. First of all I straightened the rod and valve-spindle plunger at. a smith's shop that was close by, and then I set to work to find a way of doing without a link block, and I did it in the way shown in sketch [We have had this redrawn.ED.], and managed to get engine home. As I have seen several of these broken before, I think my notes may prove useful to my fellow mechanics.
"I obtained two pieces of bar steal, same width as link, and cut them off the same length as the broken block. They were just thick enough to stand filing out to fit the pin and keep them in position."
Gudgeon-Tin Fastening.
[1572] " F.N." (Tunbridge Wells) writes :—" The following contribution may be useful to those who experience trouble through the small setscrews holding the gudgeon pin either working loose or coining out altogether. This may lead to an expensive job if these screws drop into the base chamber and ane caught by the big end of the connecting rod, as the base chamber is liable to have a hole knocked into it, and RO lose the oil. The following simple remedy is easily carried out with little trouble. Remove the cylinder, take out the gudgeon pin, grind about an eighth of an inch off •each end, and replace the pin. Now cut out two pieces of copper or 'brass plate to the exact diameter of the gudgeon pin, hammer these in tightly, one on each side of the replaced pin, and you need have no further trouble, besides dispensing with the small screws inside. These two pieces of soft metal will not score the cylinder walls in the least ; in`fact, I have known them run for over two years without the faintest sign of a score in the cylinder. [This method should not be employed if the gudgeon pins are not a tight fit in the piston.---,En.] An Improved Valve-cap Spanner.
The sender of the following communication has been awarded the 108. prize this week.
[1573] "A.11.11." (Cardiff) writes :—"While working on heavy commercial vehicles I have often noticed how the valve caps get hammered, chiselled arid punched down on to their seatings no as to make a tight joint. Often enough more or less of the castellated tops are missing through being knocked about. When such a case as this occurs I find it better to provide new caps and to screw them down on to their seatings with the tool as per sketch [We have had this re.dra.wn.—En.] and which I made up as follows :—I first got a piece of steel of suitable length and of the same diameter as the bore of the valve cap. I centred up both ends, turned down 2 ins. one end a slight taper to go into the cap, and roughed down and turned the whole of the other length, making this also a slight taper. I then drilled three
.1 in. holes in this end to take a in. lever. This lever can be worked single-ended or right through and held with a set pin. I next drilled a hole in the larger diameter and filed this out square to receive
a piece of in. square steel, the length equal to the outside diameter of the valve cap. I find that by using a specially-made tool like this, one is able to make a better and more workmanlike job. It is advisable to make a few of different sizes.