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GARAGE AND WORKSHOP• NOTES.

10th August 1926, Page 27
10th August 1926
Page 27
Page 27, 10th August 1926 — GARAGE AND WORKSHOP• NOTES.
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Some Useful Contributions From Our Driver and Mechanic Readers.

Riveting Brake Linings.

MIIE CRUDE methods now in use when riveting linings to brake shoes have not been found satisfactory by " G.W.," of Leeds, so he has designed a device -which he has found makes a far better job of this operation.

There has always been a difficulty in holding the rivet up in its place while riveting. Usually a piece of round metal is held upright in a vice whilst the head of the rivet is allowed to rest thereon during the process of burring the end, but there was always trouble In holding the shoe, the lining and the rivet in place, and ensuring the bearing of the round metal on the head of the rivet.

The device of " G.W." overcomes all the difficulties by clamping the lining firmly to Ste shoe and providing a definite means of holding the rivet in its place while using the hammer.

The clamp consists of a piece of steel in. by in., and long enough to take the widest shoe; the end is split and bent over to the shape shown. A collar is brazed on to form a bass for the setscrew, and a locknut is provided to prevent the setsCrew from working loose.

The clamp at the opposite end is adjustable for different widths of shoe. The sketch makes the mode of operation clear.

Curing Smoky Exhausts. A. SUGGESTION for a remedy for the

above trouble, which seems to be inherent to certain engines, is made by " G.A.L.," of Washington, U.S.A. The plan consists of chamfering the edge of the lower ring groove and drilling feedback holes in the skirt.

He suggests that this can be done without the use of a lathe by grinding the cutting teeth from the surfaces of a Me as shown, se that it can cut only where it is wanted to. By this means a chamfer of about in. can easily be formed on the edge of the groove, without fear of damaging the other parts of the groove.

He suggests the drilling of about four or six holes in the skirt, and points out that these holes are best drilled from the inside as shown.

Storing Springs Neatly.

THE difficulty of handling a number of

different patterns of lorry springs in stores is pointed out by " ZW.V.," of Sunderland, who says that he has two dozen different kinds to keep in stock.

Such springs are awkward things to handle, and when they lie in a heap one is likely to have Much trouble to find the particular one required, and it is not easy to see that all kinds are in stock.

To make matters easier and to keep his stores tidy, " J.W.V." has made a rack as shown, composed of two stout pieces of wood with iron rods connecting them, the space between the bars being sufficient for the widest spring. He suegests that this rack should be placed against a wall and securely fastened, as the weight of many springs would be very considerable. Another very practical suggestion from the same source is that the length and number of leaves should be marked on the spring.

Such methods of storekeeping appeal to the systematic man, as it enables one to see at a glance what is in stock.

Machining Valve Caps. somE

notes on the machining of valve caps hnve been sent by " A.J.H.C.," of London, SEAT. He points out that valve caps often prove tedious to machine, for, whilst turning the head and bottom and cutting the thread are quite simple operations, difficulty is experienced with the bore, especially in the • case of those caps tapped for compression taps. It is difficult to use a large stiff tool and therefore to take a good cut which will get beneath the sand. The result is that much effort is wasted in tool grinding and setting. Furthermore, two tools of the ordinary boringtool type have to be used, i.e., right and left.

The trouble can be overcome by making a former tool from a piece of f-in. square east steel ground in the same manner as an ordinary bull-nosed front tool, except that a slight flat is left on the nose to form a flat bottom in the cap. It should be made slightly taper on both sides and practically to the shape of the inside of the finished cap. Clearance should be allowed so that cutting does not occur on both sides of the tool at once. • Sparking-plug caps can be machined out by a former tool made from a piece of 14-in, flat file, the top being ground perfectly flat and the front to an angle of about 170 deg.; any greater angle than this may set up chatter. The left-front edge should be rounded slightly. It will be found that the best speed for this work is tap, with the back gear in.

The castellations for the top of the cap can easily be cut in a lathe, mounting the cap on the saddle and holding it in a jig, which can conveniently take the form of an old connecting rod. An endmilling cuttcr is used in the chuck and run at top speed if the cap be of gunmetal ; if of steel a lower speed must be adopted.

Removing Obstinate Bolts.

ONE of the problems often occurring during the annual overhaul is,

according to " of London, E.C.1, the removal of obstinate nuts and bolts, which in some cases are so rusted that it might appear that nothing short of chiselling them off would he effective. However, even, the most difficult sometimes yields to suitable treatment, and prolonged soaking in turpentine, paraffin or oil will often prove effective.

In removing such nuts the leverage of the ordinary spanner should be increased by slipping over its handle a piece of iron tube, but keep a sharp lookout for special locknuts and other locking devices, as it may be necessary to release these in some unusual We have learned that considerable assistance in the removal of rusted-up nuts and bolts is to be obtained by the use of Simoniz Wonder Oil.

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