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MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.

25th December 1923
Page 26
Page 26, 25th December 1923 — MAKING BEST USE OF THE FORD.
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Valuable Advice on Every Phase of Ford Transport, Which Will Appeal to the Owner. Driver, and Repairer.

IN THIS series of hints concerning the Ford light chassis and ton truck wherever they are employed for commercial purposes, we endeavour to deal with the subject from every view-point, so that the advice given will appeal to the owner, driver, maintenance engineer, or mechanic. Valuable sources of information are being tapped for this purpose, and it shaidd be understood that the advice given will be derived. from those with an intimate knowledge of the subject.

We shall welcome for inclusion among the hints those which have proved of value to individual users, and will make suitable remuneration for any published. What we desire are the results of practice.

148.—How End Play in the Crankshaft Can Be Taken Up.

The removal of end play in the crankshaft is a problem that the average Ford mechanic often has to solve. The most common method is undoubtedly renewal of the rear main bearing cap, coupled with careful fitting of the radius.

Another, and, in the opinion of some, simpler and less costly, method is to withdraw the crankshaft timing wheel and to grind sufficient off the inside flange of the wheel in orderto allow it to be pressed farther on to the shaft. The amount ground off must, of course, almost equal the end play.

This method, however, necessitates the use of a special tool to withdraw the pinion, and if such tools be not available the flange may be removed by means of a hacksaw used in the manner illustrated, the face of the pinion being used as a guide.

This will not take off the metal very close up to the face of the pinion, which is an advantage, because the rest may be cleaned off with a smooth file and the necessary adjustment effected.

After this the pinion may be moved to the distance required by using a heavy hammer and a copper drift. It may probably also be found necessary to grind the outside flange flush with the wheel to prevent it fouling the crankcase. This grinding presents little difficulty and may easily be done with the wheel in situ.

149.—Driving Home with One Axle Shaft Broken.

In our issue for October 2nd we stated that we desired to learn methods by which a Ford could be run home under its own power with a broken axle shaft.

One of our readers states that this is a very difficult matter, but that it may possibly be done by removing the roller bearing at the wheel end and wedging the axle shaft very firmly by means of wood

B44 packing, care being taken not to burst the casing while so doing. The wheel with the broken end of the shaft may then. be replaced and held in position by a Hodge's wheel retainer, or some such device. The wedging of the axle shaft, of course, doubles the final-drive gear ratio, and consequently both the speeds, and, if driven home in this manner, the driving must be done very delicately, otherwise it will be impossible to restrain the broken axle shaft from maving. In one case the greaser leading to the roller bearing was removed, and a length of steel bar screwed with the same thread was inserted through the hole and tightened against the shaft. This acted instead of the wooden wedges or packing.

At the same time our correspondent recommends that all Ford vans or cars should be fitted with wheel retainers, for, if these are in position and an axle shaft breaks, there is very much less danger of an accident occurring.

150.—The Removal and. Replacement of Split Rims.

Every driver of a Ford truck fitted with pneumatics to the rear wheels knows what a task it sometimes is to mend a puncture. Each rim is split and can be removed fairly easily, but to replace the rim in position is a troublesome and awkward job if tackled without satisfactory appliances. To render this task an easy one there is on the market a very good tool known as the Millenium, which is made by Lake and Elliot, Ltd., Albion Works, Chapel Hill, Braintree, and which can be ordered through almost any garage or retailer at a cost of under Xl.• This tool, which we illustrate, is so arranged that it can either pull or push. The rim can be pulled in until the cover can be levered off with both sides clear.

The tool consists of two main portions connected together by a long screwed bolt provided with a swivel nut. The portion carrying the nut has two rigid arms which hook over the rim at one side, whilst the other portion has one fixed hook and another working on a swivel. To the bolt is firmly secured a triangulated socket piece which has three holes for the insertion of a tommybar, whilst the swivel nut on the bolt is so fitted into its socket that it can pull or push according to the direction of rotation of the bolt.

Another rim tool which also is very simple is known as the Hercules and is handled in this country by the

Museum Super Garage, Ltd. 12, Hyde Street, New

Oxford Street, London, The cost of this is 30s. retail.

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