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HINTS ON MAINTENANCE.

15th February 1927
Page 68
Page 68, 15th February 1927 — HINTS ON MAINTENANCE.
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Assembling Tylor and Maudslay, Clutches. Improving a Commer Car Jackshaft. A Peerless Starting-handle Improvement.

Tylor and Maudslay Clutch Assembling.

AUSUAL difficulty met with when assembling or reassembling a clutch is that of compressing the spring.

In the case of Tylor and Maudslay clutches, the following methods have proved satisfactory.

For the Maudslay, the whole clutch assembly should be erected on the bench with the following parts in their respective positions:—Clutch cone, split retaining nut, radiused washer and ball race, volute spring and the aluminium cage with the adjusting eyebolts and nuts. The eyebolts should be threaded through the holes in the centre of the clutch cone and the two nuts started on their threads. Carefully centre the retaining nut exactly over the spigot bush In the clutch cone, then turn over the assembly and tighten up the two nuts alternately until the spring is fully compressed.

Assuming that the engine is in the chassis, it will be found that there is just sufficient room to pass the assembly between the clutch cross-shaft and the spigot end of the crankshaft. Slide It on to the spigot and rotate it in a clockwise direction to start the retaining nut; then screw the latter farther until the fabric facing of the cone meets its seat in the flywheel, after which the adjusting nuts can be slackened off, the clutch removed, and the split nut bolted up and pinned. The clutch is then reassembled as usual.

In the case of the Maudslay, the clutch is carried on a bushed sleeve running on the crankshaft spigot against which the spring abuts. In the flywheel are two holes, tapped j-in. Whitworth, ostensibly for forcing the flywheel off its flange.

Cut off two lengths of Fin. steel, each 10i ins. long. Thread one end of each for a length of 1 in., cutting a rather slack thread for the two holes in the flywheel. The other end should be threaded for a length of ins, and a nut fitted to each. Assemble the clutch spring, ball race and the spring on to the spigot. Screw the two studs into the holes in the flywheel and enter them into any two of the six holes in the spigot bush. Start the two nuts on the studs and screw up in turn until the boss is well past the spigot end of the shaft. This provides sufficient room to secure a good hold with a spanner on the short setscrew which is inserted into the end of the spigot. When this screw is locked well home the extra studs may be removed.

The reason for using a slack thread on the long studs is do allow for any slight misalignment of the holes in the clutch boss with the tapped holes in the flywheel.

ALUM,

FLVWHIML EOM

A Jackshaft Improvement on the Y.C.-type Conuner.

A COMMER lorry of the 50-cwt. Y.C. type was found

to be sheering its driving shafts too frequently. It was discovered that in each case the ball bearings fitted behind the chain sprockets were wearing through the shafts. These bearings were of the ordinary radial type, and it was decided to replace them by others of the self-aligning pattern. Actually, four new driving shafts were fitted in one year, but since employing the new bearings over a period of two years, no replacements have been' necessary and the shafts do not appear to have been worn.

The Care of the Peerless Starting Handle.

MOST users of Peerless lorries have trouble with the starting handle at one time or another, and this is chiefly in connection with the swivel joint, the forked lugs of which usually break through the small amount of material in them causing weakness. In a large number of cases, when this trouble occurs, the shaft is welded solid. This certainly effects a ure, but the universal action of the joint is, of course, done away with.

It is really better to adhere to the original design and make an improvement by increasing the strength of the joint. To do this, a simple method is to cut off the starting-handle shaft at the point A, this being where the latter is turned down. AISQ remove the brass hush (B), then secure a piece of round steel bar, 1# ins, diameter, and cut a piece off this the same length as that removed from the starting-handle shaft. Cut the necessary slot at one end and fit it to the starting handle in the manner shown, using a piece of i-in. screwed steel bar.

SP.COT BUM Ai WHIT.

It will be found that gudgeon pins are quite handy for this purpose after they have been softened, and the hole through the centre will facilitate fitting the stud and cutting the slot.

The increase in the size of the short shaft will greatly strengthen the lugs of the joint and further breakages will be unlikely.

Apart from the starting handle certain other weak points have shown themselves in the original Peerless design ; for instance, the cooling is often unsatisfactory and the change-speed selector rods sometimes strip their threads. These and other points will be dealt with later in a special article.

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